What is algae?

Algae are small plants that propagate by air-borne spores. They enter swimming pools and quickly turn the water green. When conditions favor their growth, they can cause black and/or green spots on pool walls. Heavy rain, intense sunlight, and presence of nitrogenous material all contribute to algae bloom – as the rapid growth of algae is called. Sometimes algae bloom results in a sharp rise in pH, as the algae consume carbon dioxide in the pool water. If algae bloom is present, super chlorination should be used. Then an algaecide will control it, and prevent its reoccurrence. The best insurance against algae? Maintain a free chlorine residual in the pool at all times. An effective way to do this is to sanitize with stabilized pool chlorinating concentrates, and add algaecide according to the directions on the label.

As bather loads peak in the summer heat, it is that time of the year again when sparkling clear water can become clouded and unsanitary. What is a pool operator to do? Cloudy water is an indication that the disinfection and filtration systems are not keeping up with the load being placed on them by the number of bathers using the pool. Cloudy water is not just unappealing to the bather. It can also be a health hazard by inducing potential spread of illnesses and decreasing the lifeguards’ ability to see submerged drowning victims. There are many reasons water can become cloudy. Let’s break down the causes, then review the remedies of unsightly and potentially hazardous water.

In this prevention advisor we will discuss:

1. Cloudy Water Common Causes
2. Combating the Cloudiness
3. Water Clarifiers
4. Algae

Common Causes for Cloudy Water

High bather loads with improper filtration, insufficient water circulation or flow rate, and poor water chemistry are the usual culprits that cause cloudy water. A pool’s turnover rate should not exceed the maximum time required by your state’s swimming pool codes, usually 6 or 8 hours. It is important that the circulation system runs 24/7.

Cloudiness is the result of particles that are too tiny to be filtered or removed from the water through oxidation. Environmental factors contribute to the existence of these particles, such as wind, rain, vegetation, and even the pool users themselves with dry skin flakes, bacteria, cosmetics, and residues of the skin.

Combating the Cloudiness

The first step in regaining control of the water’s transparency is to check the filtration system. Sometimes, resolving the issue can be as easy as cleaning the filter and re-establishing the proper flow and turnover rates. Products are also available that are designed to clean specific types of filter media.

Proper water balance is important to help prevent cloudy water. High alkalinity and pH levels can cause cloudy water. Using the saturation index, make the necessary adjustments to bring the water back into harmony.

Water Clarifiers

The majority of water clarifiers are in liquid form, but there are solid granular forms available. Depending on the directions, most clarifiers will require the product to be diluted or poured over the surface of the water. Make sure to follow manufacturer’s instructions on how to apply any chemicals.

Organic Water Clarifiers

Synthetic polyelectrolytes or polymeric coagulants are the most common organic clarifiers. They usually have a positive charge called cationic clarifiers, which directly combat the negative electrical charges within the particles that cause cloudy water.

Inorganic Water Clarifiers (Flocculants)

A common inorganic water clarifier is aluminum sulfate, known as alum. It forms a gelatinous mass that traps the microscopic suspended particles. As larger and larger particles are formed, they sink to the bottom of the pool. The circulation system must operate for a period of time to let the alum and particles to properly combine to create these larger particles. The circulation flow will then be suspended for 12-24 hours, this process is called flocculation. When the flocculated particles collect on the floor of the pool, the operator will then vacuum the bottom of the pool.

Algae

Algae are one-celled plants that become a major concern for operators. Algae comes in several forms: green, yellow, or black. If left unchecked, algae growth can contaminate a clean and clear pool in about the span of a day.

Green algae - by far the most common and easily controlled.
Black algae - usually grow on pool walls in areas of poor circulation, like deep corners.
Yellow algae (aka mustard) – difficult to control and often treated with specifically formulated algicides.

Maintaining proper disinfectant and pH levels will help prevent the growth of algae. Algae growth is supported with environmental conditions such as light and temperature. Unfortunately, swimming pools provide all the nutrients needed to grow algae: carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, nitrogen, and phosphorous. These nutrients come from the water itself because of the hydrogen, oxygen and total alkalinity, which contains carbon and oxygen. Skin fragments, dead bacteria, cosmetics, some swimming pool treatment chemicals, chemical cleaners, soils, fertilizers, bird dropping, and dead instincts also contain nitrogen and phosphorous-like contaminants.

Stains that appear reddish brown or very dark colors are typically related to the metals in your pool water. The metals that commonly cause pool stains are iron, manganese & copper. A guide to the color of pool stain resulting from each of these metals is included below. If a swimmer’s blonde or light colored hair turns green after swimming in your pool, this is an indication that there is a high concentration of copper in the water.

• Copper – Blue, Green or dark (Black)
• Iron – Rusty, Brown or Green/Brownish
• Manganese – Brownish/Black or Purple

These metals can occur naturally, and may be in the water you use to fill the pool. If you have hard water or fill your pool with well water you are more likely to have metal pool stain problems, and regular testing for metals is suggested. Metals may also be introduced into the pool when the pool pH or pool alkalinity levels are not properly maintained, and the water becomes corrosive. Corrosive pool water will eat away at the pool surface and inside of pool plumbing and equipment, releasing metals into the water. The plumbing inside a swimming pool heater, called the “heat exchanger”, is made of copper. If the pool pH and pool Alkalinity levels are not properly maintained, this heat exchanger will quickly corrode and dissolve copper into the pool water causing pool stains.

The first step to eliminating a pool metal stain is to have the pool water tested for metals, and determine how the excess metals were introduced into the water. Take measures to prevent the stain from quickly returning. If there are excessive amounts of metals in your pool water, and stains return again and again after trying each method of treatment, you should partially drain the pool and re-fill with fresh water that has been tested to confirm there is very little or no metals. As with stains caused by something organic, metal pool stains can be easily removed using a natural ascorbic acid based product or diphosphonic acid based product. Another method for removing stains from the floor of a pool is to place ½ pound of pH Reducer in a sock, and drop the sock onto the stain. Position the sock with your telescoping pole, and leave it on the pool stain for 5-10 minutes. If the stain has been removed, place the sock on each affected area for 5-10 minutes.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/116782

How it works…the truth

This may not surprise most of you reading this, but salt generators are actually creating chlorine! Some people are still surprised by this fact when they start asking about salt systems. Water travels through a “cell” in the pool’s circulation system. The cell contains layers of metallic plates that are electrically charged by the generator’s power supply. The process of electrolysis converts the salt to a form of liquid chlorine. This creates an instant and continuous source of free chlorine in the water. As the chlorine is used up, it converts back to salt allowing it to be generated into chlorine again. Because of its continuous chlorine production, there is less need for shocking or adding chlorine manually, yet there are times when a salt water pool will require the use of another type of chlorine. See the table below for adding salt (“Salt Demand”). Most manufacturers recommend around 3200 ppm of salt in the pool water to efficiently produce chlorine in the cell. Humans can usually taste salt around 5000 ppm. So, you shouldn’t be able to taste the salt in your pool water. The Pacific Ocean, incidentally, has a salinity level of 36000 ppm, more than ten times the salinity of pool water.

Some people comment that their pool water is “softer” now with salt than it used to be on their old system. Softness has to do with calcium hardness and not salinity. So unless the homeowner filled the pool from a soft water system, this statement is usually inaccurate. However, there is less “combined” chlorine in the water with salt systems, reducing chlorine odors and eye irritation. If you have ever walked into a public pool facility, you may have noticed the smell of “chlorine.” Most people assume that this is because of extremely high chlorine levels. In fact, the smell comes from “free” chlorine getting used up. As chlorine gets used up because of high swimmer loads and bather waste, the chlorine combines into “chloramines,” which are inactive or “dead” chlorine molecules. There is still chlorine in the water, but it is “bound up” with itself, unable to sanitize, creating the typical public pool smell. So, saltwater pools, with their continuous source of free chlorine, typically don’t have a public pool smell to them.

Salt, similar to calcium and cyanuric acid, stays in the water unless the water is diluted. Backwashing, bather splashing, and evaporation all require the addition of water throughout the pool season, effectively diluting the pool water. Typically, adding just a few bags of Pool Salt a couple times during the pool season will keep the salt levels where they should be.  Always have your salt level checked several times during the pool season. (See “Salt Demand” table below for top-off and start-up salt doses.)

Most generators are equipped with a sensor that tests salinity levels, but it only checks at certain time intervals. So, if you have just added salt, or are opening your pool, give the system some time (24-48 hours) to display an accurate salt level.

pH & Alkalinity

Anything that enters your pool water has a pH.  Humans, animals, leaves, rain, chemicals, or whatever will affect pH in the water. So what about salt? Well, salt itself does not drastically change pH or Alkalinity.  But the liquid form of chlorine generated by the salt cell will cause high pH swings (see “Disinfectant Characteristics”). The chlorine in salt pools is most similar to liquid chlorine with a similar pH. Of course nobody will tell you this when you are signing a pool construction contract or paying a pool guy to put one in, but salt systems will actually increase your pH and Alkalinity. One of the symptoms of a pool with extra high alkalinity is a clear green hue to the water. This is a common symptom especially during seasons when source water is already high in alkalinity. Since the chlorine generated in salt pools is very similar to liquid chlorine, salt pool owners have a unique challenge to constantly maintain their pH. Furthermore, since the total alkalinity acts as a buffer for pH, it is an even greater feat to keep alkalinity down. Allowing Alkalinity and pH to rise without any action will result in water that may allow staining or scaling. Since most Salt system customers have been told they don’t have to do anything but put salt in their water, we often find that a few years after installing their salt system, pool owners have to deal with scaling problems, plaster staining, or unusual water colors. Among these pools we also encounter cells that inaccurately sense the lack of salt due to scale buildup on the sensor. One of the simplest, yet mostly ignored, maintenance procedures is to acid wash the salt cell a couple times per season. Ask your pool professional to perform this or consult your pool dealer or equipment manual for help doing this on your own.

ORP controllers

Stay with me on this one. In most commercial pool systems, Oxidation Reduction Potential (ORP) controllers are used to automatically detect the oxidizing capacity present in the pool water. Oxidizers such as chlorine, bromine, and ozone accept electrons, while decreasers such as sodium bisulfate and sodium thiosulfate lose electrons. So, an increase in oxidation will result in a decrease in reduction and vice versa. The controller’s platinum probe sensors detect electron activity, and depending on the water’s ability to oxidize or reduce itself, the controller will activate feeding pumps which will dose the appropriate chemicals such as liquid chlorine and/or hydrochloric acid. These pumps may switch on many times a day to maintain pH and chlorine levels. It is common for a 40,000 gallon public pool to dose between 5 and 15 gallons of acid solution per week in order to keep up with the acid demand caused by liquid chlorine. Pool systems that already have acid pumps installed are good candidates for salt chlorinators since they already have a way to continuously dose acid.

Cyanuric acid

As is the case with Liquid Chlorine, the chlorine in salt pools is being generated continuously without any protection from the sun’s ultraviolet rays. This is what we refer to as “unstabilized chlorine.” The “stabilizer” required is called Cyanuric acid. There are also stabilized forms of chlorine such as Chlorine Tablets (Trichlor) or Granular Chlorine (Dichlor). Using these types of chlorine in your pool will offer some protection, but the cyanuric acid level should still be tested by a pool professional to ensure UV protection against the sun. Indoor pools need no stabilizer since they have no UV exposure.

90% of unstabilized chlorine is destroyed by the UV radiation from the sun within two hours. Salt cell manufacturers Pentair and GoldLine both require the presence of more than 50ppm cyanuric acid in the water to protect the Chlorine from burn out. In fact, in a recent phone call to Pentair regarding an issue with a salt cell at a jobsite, the Manufacturer told us they would not warrant the service until we could show that the Cyanuric acid level was above 90ppm in the pool water.

Pool owners have many positive and negative aspects they should consider before they convert their pools to salt systems. While swimming in salt water is considered more enjoyable than swimming in traditionally chlorinated pools, the costs of initial installation and keeping up repairs can be off-putting to some homeowners. Here are some of the pros and cons of converting to a saline pool system.

Maintenance
Maintaining your saline pool is easier than maintaining a chlorinated pool. Because your salt system converts the salt to the needed chlorine, you are not having to constantly add more chlorine to your pool. This makes maintenance much easier. You still have to check your pool’s water for the appropriate chemical levels, but you do not have to be constantly pouring in buckets of chemicals to keep your pool safe.

Softer Water
Although saltwater pools do still contain chlorine, their water is much milder than in traditional systems. They are also not nearly as salty as you might imagine, having a salt content that is more like that in human tears than ocean water. This makes for a much more pleasant experience with swimming because opening your eyes underwater will not sting or burn the way it would if you opened your eyes in a conventional pool system.

Chemical Costs
One of the huge advantages saline systems have over traditional chlorine systems is that the chemicals necessary to keep the water safe are substantially cheaper. Salt does not evaporate in the same way as chlorine, so you are not faced with the frequent expense of replacing evaporated chlorine-instead, you have to pay the minimal cost of adding salt only a couple of times a season (at worst).

Initial Cost
One of the major cons that homeowners face when they are considering converting their system to a saltwater pool is the initial cost. Most pool owners find this cost to be manageable, but it is a minimum of several hundred dollars to purchase and have the chlorine generator installed. Your pool may also have other specific needs before it is converted, so you should be certain you know all of the costs involved before you commit to converting. Your pool repair and installation contractor will be able to give you a full estimate before you begin switching your system.

Repair Costs
It’s one of the facts of chemistry that salt is a corrosive substance. Because of this, the metal in your saltwater pool is going to undergo more corrosion than it might in a chlorine-only pool. Since many parts of your pool do rely on metal pieces, you may need to replace various parts of your pool more frequently than you might have to with a chlorinated pool. Some experts suggest that some of this corrosion comes from improperly maintained chlorine levels, but the presence of salt does contribute as well.

Whether you opt to convert your pool to a salt system or choose to stay with the chlorine pool you already have, be sure to contact a pool maintenance company to keep your pool running at its best. A qualified pool maintenance company can make your conversion to a saline pool a breeze, and they can also make the regular chemical balancing of a chlorine only system easy too.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=G._Stephens

While they were once only used sporadically, today, salt water pools are becoming more and more popular for homeowners. However, although many salt water pool manufacturers promote the ease of converting your pool to a salt water system, the pool treatment methods are not any easier than those of a typical pool. Before your convert your system, it is important to understand how it works and why you should (and should not) consider converting.

Salt treatment begins with understanding exactly how salt water pools’ chlorination systems work. The basis behind this system is that you do not have to add chlorination for this treatment. However, that does not mean that there is no chlorine. That’s actually a common misconception. There are chemicals in a saltwater pool. Treatment is still necessary, and although you do not have to manually add chlorine (in most cases), there is still chlorine in the system. The chlorine, however, comes from the salt itself.

A salt system is not the same as swimming in the ocean. In fact, the water in a pool system is actually still considered fresh water because there is only a very low level of salt in it (there’s more salt in your eyes). However, this amount of salt, when put through a control box, can create enough chlorination to keep your pool clean, blue and safe for swimmers.

The control box on a salt water pool treatment system is a device that actually sends electricity through the sale. The longer the electricity runs through the salt, the more chlorinated the water will be. The pool treatment system should automatically control this, but you’ll still need to use test strips to test for chemicals often. You can control how chlorinated the water is using the salt control knob. In addition, with the control box, you can tell when you need to add more salt to the system.

Although you will not have to add chlorine as part of your salt water pool treatment program, you will have to continuously check for alkalinity and pH level. It is a good idea to check your water once a week if you use it moderately and even more often if you use it often or get a lot of rain, which can affect the acidity levels. As part of your pool treatment plan, you also need to check the calcium levels in your pool. With too much calcium, your pool water will be “hard” and may leave unsightly build up along the steps and tiles. In addition, excess calcium in your salt water can clog the pump and control box system.

Salt water pool treatment is, for some, a better option than a typical chlorinated pool system. Keep in mind, however, that there are other options as well, and that natural pools are also becoming more popular. Pool treatment is an issue no matter what kind of pool you have, so don’t make the mistake of thinking there is no work involved with having a pool.

Article Source: http://EzineArticles.com/?expert=Ben_E._Anderson

Let these elements get unbalanced and out of whack, and you will be faced with everything from algae growth, to cloudy water, to skin irritation, to chemical stains to scale formation …. and the list could go on and on.

Suffice it to say that with these three key areas, the phrase “an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure” could not be more accurate! So here are 3 keys to having perfect swimming pool chemistry (and, by extension, to enjoying a perfect, crystal clear, sparkling pool).

Perfect Swimming Pool Chemistry Key #1 – Total Alkalinity Level: Total Alkalinity is the measure of water’s resistance to change in pH. It is the “buffering” capacity of the water. The higher the Total Alkalinity, the harder it is for the pH to change. The acceptable range for Total Alkalinity levels is between 90-140 ppm, however, the ideal range is between 100 to 120 ppm. You should check the total alkalinity levels once a week using a simple test kit. If your Total Alkalinity is outside of this range, then adjust the total alkalinity by adding sodium bicarbonate (baking soda) to raise it or sodium bisulfate (dry acid) to lower it.

Perfect Swimming Pool Chemistry Key #2 – pH Level: Maintaining a proper pH balance is one of the most important and basic areas of good pool care — and to keeping your pool crystal clear. You should check the pH levels once a week. The ideal range is between 7.4-7.6. Just remember, if it’s lower that this you can cause equipment issues and also irritate your skin. If it’s higher than this, you will those nasty “rings” around the water line of your pool. To lower the pH, add sodium bisulfate or liquid muriatic acid. To raise it, add soda ash (sodium carbonate).

Perfect Swimming Pool Chemistry Key #3 – Proper Sanitation: Regardless of what type of pool you have (hydrogenated, salt water or traditional chlorine), you cannot underestimate the importance of sanitation with your pool water. Sanitizing is essential to keeping pool water clean, bacteria-free, and safe for swimming the water. Sanitizing also kills all microorganisms, including bacteria and algae, and removes unwanted contaminants from the water. Use a sanitizer to help fight bacteria, and shock the pool on a regular basis to help keep it clean and crystal-clear.

Once you get these three elements under control, you have made your entire pool maintenance job so much easier.

Source: Terry Duff

10) Electrical
Proper electrical wiring for a swimming pool and all its components is critical since water, electricity and people are a dangerous mix. Swimming pools, and all metal components within one meter of the water line should be bonded with a heavy ground wire loop. Additionally all electrical devices that come into close contact with water such as pumps and lights must be properly connected with a GFIC or ground fault interrupter.

9) Slippery Decks
As swimming pool deck surfaces age and weather they will develop algae and become very slippery, especially in wet conditions. To reduce the likelihood of falling or slipping on a pool deck, you should pressure wash your deck yearly. Additionally a silica sand can be added to your concrete sealer to provide a more textured and slip resistant surface.

8) Ladders & Stairs
Stairs and ladders are a very common place for injury in a swimming pool. Colored nosing tile is used to accentuate step edges in many pools, which helps to define the step edges under the moving water. The likelihood for a fall or injury increases at night, and also even more so if there is no underwater swimming pool light to illuminate the water. Ladders often have hand rails installed into the pool deck which can become loose over time. If the ladder rails shift as you are climbing out of the water, this will greatly increase the risk of a fall.

7) Water Quality
Do not underestimate your green swimming pool. Harmful bacteria can reside in poorly maintained water. It is critical to ensure that the water quality is suitable for swimming to prevent infections and staph infections of the eyes, ears, nose and throat. Chemical levels in the water can also affect those prone to skin reactions.

6) Chemical Storage
Your swimming pool chemicals are a potent mix of strong acids, alkalines and poisons. Even worse is that many of these chemicals specifically react with one another, yet they are often stored in the same location with little effort to keep them safe. Chemicals should be researched and stored in a controlled, dry and locked location at all times.

5) Pool Winter Covers
Winterization covers are often just large tarps stretched over the pool with sand or water bags pinning them down at the edges. These are not strong enough to support the weight of a medium pet or small child without pulling into the pool. They can look tempting to walk on, but any person or animal that walks out onto a swimming pool winter cover is in serious jeopardy.

4) Suction Lines
The swimming pool suction points, most commonly the skimmer and the main drain are directly connected to the front of powerful swimming pool pumps. The power of a pool pump is more than enough the cause sever and life threatening injury. The warning label that comes on new main drains, skimmers and pool pumps states that the pool pump has enough force to trap, drown and disembowel you should you unwittingly cover the suction point with any part of your body. Tragically every year more children are killed this way from single suction main drains which are now illegal. Dual suction main drains spaced apart are now required so that you can not cover both suction points at the same time. Proper use of main drain lids is critical to ensure the safety of your swimmers.

3) Pool Toys
A surprisingly common source for swimming pool related accidents is a result of swimming pool toys which are not suitable for use in a pool. Some floatation devices can cause young swimmers to flip over and get trapped upside down under the water. Large inner tubes or inflatable boats are prime examples of items better suited for the beach.

2) Pool Slides
Swimming pool slides seem like a good idea when you consider children playing in the pool. At the same time, a pool slide is literally like letting your children play on a 9 foot tall ladder over top of concrete. Pool slides are less and less common these days, and for good reason as they are the second most common cause of serious injury in a swimming pool.

1) Diving Boards
By far the most dangerous element to your swimming pool is the diving board. The vast majority of swimming pools are not deep enough for a diving board. The risk of spinal and head trauma are extremely high in pools less than nine feet deep, which most are. Even a moderately steep dive will cause a collision at the bottom for the swimmer, and the long slope of the pool shallow end is a tricky obstacle to avoid when pulling up from the dive. Removing the diving board from your pool and encouraging a no diving policy will decrease the likelihood of a swimming pool accident or injury by as much as 50%.